A Post from Kerry (First Mate, SV Brigadoon)
Last February I was attending the Annual Women’s Boating
Seminar being held on the North Seattle Community College campus. It’s a wonderful day full of seminars and
talks about boating – both sail and power.
For women, by women. A great
chance to chat up fellow female boaters and learn a few things. It wasn’t my first time attending, and at
this point I’ve been around enough boat shows and seminars in the last four
years that I’m starting to get on a first name basis with some of the region’s
most inspiring female boaters. At lunch
I found myself sitting around a table with many of the speakers from the day –
Wendy Hinman, Judy Nasmith (who also organizes this fun event), Nancy Erley,
and Linda Lewis. All women I’d seen
speak before – full of knowledge, experience, and a lot of passion for being on
the water. Later in the afternoon, Linda
approached me between sessions and casually asked if I had any extra vacation
time to use up this summer. I smiled and
told her that yes, actually, there was a chance I might have some extra time I
could use…. “Why?” She said she was planning to take her annual
trip up to the Broughton Islands and was looking for crew – would I be
interested? My first instinct was to
step back and tell her that I couldn’t possibly take the time off necessary to
go with her, but then I thought better of it and just said that I’d love to
chat more about it when she was ready to start planning out her trip.
Four months went by and I completely forgot about this
conversation. Then I got her phone
call. Linda called me in June and told
me she was starting to put together her roster and itinerary and did I still have
time off I could use? I said I’d have to
talk to my managers and Donn, but that yes, it was possible. We narrowed it down to a vague time frame
and I told her I’d get back to her in a day or so. As I checked at work and with Donn, I was met
with complete support and excitement for me to go on an adventure. When all was said and done, Linda and I
agreed that I would fly up to Blind Channel, meet her as she was making her way
back south at the end of August, and crew for her for seven days, ending up in
Anacortes on Labor Day if all went well.
As we chatted on the phone about the logistics, I asked “who else will
be on the boat?” – She replied that it would just be her and me.
Captain Linda Lewis teaches boating. She teaches navigation classes through the
Coast Guard Auxiliary, which is how I met her in the first place. I knew that this opportunity would afford me
some amazing one on one time, with her, on her boat, learning about new waters
and soaking in everything I could in seven days. The weeks went by as I waited for the day I
was to fly out on a float plane from Kenmore Air on Lake Washington. The morning of August 25th was
beautiful. Donn dropped me off at the
docks and we parted ways. I was nervous
and excited – having never been on a float plane before.
We landed in Nanaimo as we made our way north, so we could
check in to Canada, and the pilot could refuel.
Taking off again, the pilot informed me we’d be in Blind Channel in
about 45 minutes. I can’t express how
beautiful the world below looked. I
followed on the rudimentary map they provide, as I picked out which islands
were which as we glided over them. Tiny
specks of boats were below me, making their way north or south, through the
Strait of Georgia. I knew that’d be us
soon enough.
I realized we were now flying over the island just south of
Blind Channel – East Thurlow Island. The
hills full of trees were getting closer as the small plane followed the curves
of the land down to the channel below, making another smooth landing. We snugged up to the dock, I grabbed my bags
and stepped off to find Linda waiting for me with a big smile on her face.
She led me back to her 45 foot trawler – “Royal Sounder”. A 1978 KhaShing power boat. She’s got classic lines and a beautiful
bow. Linda and her husband have
maintained her beautifully and she really is a comfortable and sturdy
vessel. Linda showed me around, showed
me where I’d be sleeping and where I could stow my belongings. She pointed out a few things that we’d get
more in depth on later. Then as we
stepped out on the deck to head up to land for lunch, a couple on one of the
neighboring boats told us to look out in the channel. A small pod of orcas were swimming
through. I’m pretty sure I saw at least
one adult and two babies – my first sighting of whales in the wild ever! I figured it was a good sign to be welcomed
so warmly by the orcas just after arriving.
J
After a nice lunch and some texts to Donn to let him know
I’d arrived safely, we headed back to the boat.
We discussed our route for the next day.
We had a bit of a dilemma because of the currents the next morning. As we talked over our options, I felt a
strong pull to head east towards Dent Rapids.
It seemed like a more interesting choice. She agreed with me, but also acknowledged
that we couldn’t make it to Dent in time for slack from where we were, even if
we left at first light. So the decision
was made to make it a short trip to Shoal Bay, leaving around 9:30 or 10,
catching the current east and easily reaching Shoal Bay before Noon. We would then proceed through Dent and the
other passes the following day, easily accomplished from the closer location. Then Linda started explaining in more detail
what our respective roles would be around docking, anchoring, and while
underway. Her processes were detailed,
clear, and very thorough. I knew I was
in good hands.
We awoke early – she whispered down to me to see if I was
awake yet and asked if I wanted to see something amazing. I hopped up quickly and went out on deck to
see one of the most beautiful sunrises I’ve ever witnessed (photo above!). As the pace of the city started to fade away
a bit, I began to truly breathe in the beauty and quiet around me. It was gorgeous up there.
As she had shown me the night before, I got the lines ready
for departure. In Canada, most of the
docks use “bull rails” and not cleats as we’re used to in the States. I had used bull rails before, but not often and
hadn’t yet mastered a good process. That
was about to change. In seven days, I
learned, struggled and somewhat conquered bull rails and how best to work the
lines around them when docking and departing.
I think we had conversations almost every single day while we were under
way about techniques and tricks on how best to work with them. Cleats are like a walk in the park now!
Another cool tool she uses is headsets. These are AWESOME! Donn had reconfigured some motorcycle
headsets for use on our boat, but we hadn’t had a chance to use them yet. On this trip I learned just how much they can
help keep things calm, and organized. So
we had on our headsets, she was at the helm, and I was on the boat ready to
release the lines. Everything went
smoothly as we pulled away from the dock.
Then we switched places. I manned
the helm as she went outside to release the skiff away from the boat’s port
side hip and back behind to the end of the towing line, where it stayed while
underway.
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| Dock at Shoal Bay |
Shoal Bay was beautiful and quiet. A small community of volunteers run a small
pub out of a living room and maintain a garden and a chicken coop. For a donation you can garden a bit, harvest
a few things, and possibly get a few eggs if you so desire. We wandered, then headed back for the daily
happy hour on board. These were some of
my favorite times – we’d sit back, we’d each have one beverage of choice, along
with a few snacks and just talk. This
was our first chance to really get to know each other, as we’d never spent time
together outside of a boating class. As
the days wore on we laughed a LOT and were delighted with how many things we
seemed to have in common.
The next day we timed our departure to catch Dent Rapids at
slack. She made sure I was at the helm,
so she could get the requisite photo of me yawning through the boring waterway,
which only a few hours before had been running at 9 knots. Gillard Pass and Yaculta Rapids were equally
as exciting. We made our way to Von
Donop Inlet where we had decided to spend the night at anchor. As we eased in to the Inlet, following two
other boats, we worried it might be crowded.
We made it to a wonderful spot where other boats had settled in, but
where there was still plenty of room. I
was at the helm, with Linda at the bow looking for just the right spot. I read out depths to her as we circled around
slowly like a cat picking its spot in the sun.
She directed me at the helm as she lowered the anchor. Soon enough we were dug in and ready to relax
for the rest of the afternoon and evening.
It was warm out and I was so tempted to get my bathing suit on and go
for a swim, but she dissuaded me with a warning about the coldness of the
water. I grabbed a PFD and tether and
climbed down to the swim step. Rolling
up my pants, I stuck my feet in the water.
It was cold, but felt so good. I
stayed down there a while, just lying on the swim step, looking up at clouds
quietly drifting by. Being at anchor,
especially in a protected, quiet anchorage, is incredibly peaceful. I slept well, knowing we’d be up with the sun
again to get underway by 6:30am.
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| Westview Marina - looking back at the entrance |
The next day brought us closer to civilization. We made it to the Westview Marina, near
Powell River on the BC mainland. After
docking and getting the boat squared away, I headed up in search of a shower
and a chance to walk around a bit. Later
that night we found a great Italian restaurant “Snickers”. We were craving pizza and each ordered our
own personal pizzas. I went on to amaze
Linda with my ability to put away food.
This became a running joke for the rest of the trip….
Another early departure started us off on our longest day of
the week. We had hit a perfect weather
window to cross the Strait of Georgia and head to Nanaimo. We maintained a shift schedule of one hour
on, one hour off. It was a long day,
with waves coming at us from the north as we crossed SW, but they never got too
strong and we maintained an excellent course.
I think we made it in about six and half hours.
Each day of the journey I learned more about the various
instruments and tools at the helm and how I could best use them to help make
decisions about other boats, our course, etc.
We were using the autopilot much of the time, which was nice. I kept watch by looking outside, then
glancing at the radar, and then at our course on the navigation software on her
laptop. I learned how best to use the
radar to determine whether other boats around us posed a threat if they were
heading our direction. So simple, but so
effective – and reassuring.
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| Radar shot while at anchor in Monague Harbor |
We arrived in Nanaimo tired and the docking process ended up
being a touch stressful, with a strong current pushing us away from the dock
and a marina employee who was less than helpful. But we managed to get tied up safely and
settled in. I realized that after such a
long day I needed some alone time, so I bid Linda adieu and headed out in
search of a shower and some comfort food.
I also allowed myself to call Donn for the first time since
leaving. Up until then we had texted at
least once or twice a day when I had cell coverage. By the time I got back to the boat in the
early evening, I felt more rested and relaxed.
Linda showed up a little while later and we enjoyed another nice evening
talking and sharing stories.
The next morning we left on the early side to make it to
another pass at slack time. Once again
I was at the helm as we made our way slowly through Dodd Narrows. Then it was a straight shot down to Montague
Harbor where we anchored for our second time, surrounded by boats enjoying the
end of the summer. It was Saturday of
Labor Day weekend. Once we had anchored
securely, we realized we had a nice quiet afternoon stretching in front of
us. We separated to our respective
berths. I napped, watched a movie I had
downloaded onto my Kindle Fire for the trip, and read a bit. It rained off and on and created an
incredibly cozy day. There was no doubt
in my mind – I was in love with this life on the water and I couldn’t wait to
come back up here with Donn on our own boat.
Sunday brought us back into the US, where we checked in at
Roche Harbor and anchored close by in Garrison Bay. Then we hopped into Linda’s 17 foot skiff,
built by her husband, and motored back to Roche to get some ice cream and check
out the sights. I went on walkabout and
explored the Sculpture Park and the Mausoleum.
It’s a beautiful place, and being Labor Day weekend, the marina itself
was packed with boats. We headed back
to the boat before sunset, had a nice final dinner together and went to bed
early, ready for another early morning to head out on our last leg to
Anacortes.
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| Grinning like a cheshire cat as we glide through Pole Pass |
Monday’s trip to Anacortes stared off with the sun shining
directly at us from the sky and the water.
It was blinding and I wasn’t quite sure how to keep watch. I used my sunglasses when looking out and
then pushed them down my nose when I needed to see the instruments. An hour or so in, we changed direction just
enough to change the angles for the better.
One more pass – Pole Pass on the south end of Orcas Island and then we
were home free. We made it to the dock
at Anacortes by 11:30am with Donn waiting for us at the dock, ready to catch
our lines. It was a pretty awesome way
to arrive back to the mainland.
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| Happy Reunion! |
Overall we had amazing weather and for the most part were
able to use currents to our advantage.
We kept our speeds between six and eight knots for the most part. I worked hard, relaxed deeply, and truly
enjoyed getting to know Linda better in the seven days we were together. I also came home with a list of ideas and
processes I hope to adapt for us and our boat.
Some of these include docking practices, others include timing of
keeping watch and manning the helm. I
think the most valuable thing I brought home with me was a sense of inspiration
and accomplishment. I feel empowered and
capable in ways I haven’t before.
It’s been two weeks since my return. This past weekend, I suggested we take our
boat out into the lake early on Sunday morning so I could practice docking at
Ivar’s dock just east of Gasworks. No
other boats around and hardly a whisper of wind – perfect conditions. We used our headsets, I was at the helm the
entire time. Donn talked me through
departure from our dock and then docking and undocking at Ivar’s. Then we came home and I docked at our own
dock, which has its own challenges. I
glanced our pulpit off of one of the posts that stick up from our dock, but
otherwise, nothing damaged, and no one hurt.
All good. After four years, I
finally got up the courage to dock my own boat.
And that’s huge.
Many thanks to Linda for the opportunity to join her, the
encouragement, and the wonderful fellowship.
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